Olympus M.Zuiko 30mm F3.5 Macro Lens Review

Goodbyehorses.us Important Notes:
1. I am an Olympus Malaysia employee.
2. This is a user experience based review, based on my personal opinion which can be subjective.
3. All images were shot in RAW and converted directly to JPEG (High Quality) via Olympus Viewer 3.
4. General camera settings, Noise Filter = OFF, Contrast/Saturation/sharpness = 0, White Balance = Auto (with an option maintain warm color = OFF), Gradation = Normal
5. Minimal post-processing applied to the images, with slight brightness/contrast balance tweak. All images were almost as good as straight out of camera, with minimal cropping for better presentation.

I am well aware that the hottest items that everyone wants to know about would be the newly announced in development Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II, as well as the M.Zuiko 12-100mm F4 IS PRO lens. However, the E-M1 Mark II is still under development, and it will be quite a while before it is ready to be launched. I do have a very early pre-production sample of the 12-100mm F4 PRO lens, which is not fit for review purpose, The actual review-ready sample will be arriving soon, and trust me I will jump right into reviewing it when it is here, you know I will!

Now this leads me to another item which was also announced alongside the E-M1 Mark II, 25mm F1.2 PRO and 12-100mm F4 PRO, the strangely under-mentioned M.Zuiko 30mm F3.5 Macro lens. It is not difficult to understand how this new 30mm macro lens has become overshadowed by the OM-D new flagship and two PRO lenses! Nonetheless, Olympus should be acknowledged as an expert and industry leader in lens making technology and manufacturing expertise, hence like all other Olympus M.Zuiko lenses that 30mm F3.5 Macro lens should not be underestimated.

I have spent a total of two days (not successively), one day shooting the 30mm F3.5 Macro lens on my own OM-D E-M10 Mark II and another day on the OM-D E-M1 (original 2013 version) to gather sufficient photographs to compose this blog entry.

The Olympus M.Zuiko 30mm F3.5 Macro lens is compact and light. 

The front of the Macro lens. I really should have shot the lens product image BEFORE I went out and shoot with it. 

30mm F3.5 Macro lens fits perfectly on OM-D E-M1

honestly I do not really know how I hold the lenses these days. I did not realize I used only two fingers. Not sure if this is the best way to do so. 
Olympus already has a macro lens in the Micro Four Thirds M.Zuiko line up, the 60mm F2.8 Macro which is an excellent lens. So why a 30mm Macro?
A 30mm macro lens is different than a 60mm macro lens. 30mm provides much wider field of view, allowing wider perspective to be captured while going in close to the subject, resulting in different and sometimes more interesting composition options. If you are getting the 60mm F2.8 Macro lens, you would probably be using that macro lens for very specific macro shooting purposes, or for tight, medium tele-photo coverage type of photography, eg portraits or a stage performance. On the other hand a wider 30mm perspective is much easier to use for day to day, walkaround shooting conditions. It is smaller, more compact, easier to carry around and works just fine as a one lens do it all, capturing a wide range of scenes, food, people, street, tight landscape, you name it. The 30mm as a general, everyday lens is more versatile than the longer 60mm lens. I am not saying which lens works better, I also acknowledge that the longer 60mm macro lens will provide significantly better working distance for shooting insect macro. However, the truth is, not everyone buys a macro lens to shoot insects. 

Let’s look at some highlights of the Olympus M.Zuiko 30mm F3.5 Macro Lens features
1) Maximum of 2.5x real life magnification (equivalent in 35mm format)
The older M.Zuiko 60mm F2.8 Macro lens can do 2x magnification in equivalent 35mm format. This new 30mm F3.5 Macro can do 2.5x magnification. While 2.5x vs 2x may not seem a lot, but in terms of magnification for macro photographers, we do appreciate as much magnification as we can get, and that extra 0.5x magnification is a huge welcome. 
2) Superb Optical Performance
The 30mm F3.5 Macro lens is slotted into the Premium range of M.Zuiko lens line-up, which is the same category as 45mm F1.8, 25mm F1.8, and of course the macro lens 60mm F2.8. I am expecting the sharpness and technical control of this lens to be very good. This 30mm F3.5 Macro lens is constructed from 9 elements in 7 groups, including the Dual Super Aspherical lens, Extra Low Dispersion lens, and Aspherial lens. 
3) Minimum Focusing Distance of 95mm
The actual working distance between lens and subject is about 14mm, which is too close for shooting insect macro. However, the super close up shooting distance allows for maximum of 2.5x magnification. 

4) 20-30% Faster AF than M.Zuiko 60mm F2.8 Macro lens
When shooting macro, I usually use manual focus since for extreme magnification shots there usually is hunting, so any improvement in the AF capability is good to have. 
5) Compact, small form factor
This lens weighs only 128g! The front diameter is 46mm and it is about 60mm long. 
For full specifications please go to the official product page here
So how big is the 2.5x magnification capable of?
Unfortunately the M.Zuiko 30mm F3.5 Macro lens did not have the magnification indicator built in. Therefore there was no way for me to tell what magnification to set for this comparison purpose I was doing with Mr Deadpool. I had to use the 60mm F2.8 Macro lens for the equivalent magnification of 0.5x, 1x and 2x examples as shown below. Only the full 2.5x magnification was done with the 30mm F3.5 in the comparison, since this can be achieved by fixing the closest focusing distance. 
60mm F2.8 Macro lens at 0.5x equivalent magnification. 

60mm F2.8 Macro at 1x equivalent magnification

60mm F2.8 Macro at 2x equivalent magnification

30mm F3.5 Macro at 2.5x equivalent magnification

Isn’t Deadpool just gorgeous?
During the course of my tests in real life shooting, especially for insect macro photography, I only managed to successfully shoot one full 2.5x equivalent magnification image! It was not easy sticking the lens about 14mm away from the subjects. Everything flies away at that distance. Is this lens bad for insect macro? Not really, you still can get about 1x magnification to 1.5x magnification easily with comfortable enough working distance, but going in to 2x to 2.5x magnification might not be feasible. 
I know the biggest question that everyone is asking: how sharp is this macro lens? Is it as good as the 60mm F2.8 Macro lens?
The subsequent shots were taken with either E-M1 or E-M10 Mark II. I will specify which camera used in the captions. External flash was fire wirelessly, and for my insect macro shooting methodology please do read my blog write up here (click). 
OM-D E-M10 Mark II
F13, 1/125sec, ISO200, Wireless Flash used
This is my only full 2.5x magnification shot. Everything else flew away before I got in too close. 
Flash execution was also very bad, with plenty of unwanted highlights. I need to design a new macro lighting technique for this lens, as I needed the light to go a lot nearer to the lens. 

This is not 100% crop. Just a tighter crop. The 100% crop was not that sharp, due to excessive hand-shake. Yeap, I screwed up my shot. Not the first time. 

F8, 1/160sec, ISO200, Wireless Flash Fired

OM-D E-M10 Mark II
F8, 1/100sec, ISO200, Wireless Flash Fired

Crop from previous image

F8, 1/160sec, ISO200, Wireless Flash Fired

F9, 1/250sec, ISO200, Wireless Flash Fired
Ok I admit, I cropped this shot, like a lot. I could not get near to this Ant Mimic Spider. It was so cute I just wanted to show the photo here. The original photograph was also severely underexposed hence I pushed up the shadows, resulting in grainy background. But that Spider is sooooooo cute!

F8, 1/160sec, ISO200, Wireless Flash Fired
This is an actual ant. 

F8, 1/200sec, ISO200
For shots like this, which is not full 2.5x magnification, it is quite easy to shoot. I do not know what magnification than this, but I’d think it is more than 1x magnification. 

Crop from previous image

OM-D E-M10 Mark II
F6.3, 1/60, ISO320

The Olympus M.Zuiko 30mm F3.5 Macro lens has excellent sharpness, as evidently shown in the crops of actual photographs. The lens is capable of resolving plenty of fine details, shooting even at extreme magnification ratios. I personally find that the level of sharpness is very close to the 60mm F2.8 Macro lens, though I do think that the 60mm F2.8 Macro lens may be a tad sharper, but even pixel peeping closely the difference is not easy to tell apart, The level of sharpness is sufficient for any serious macro photography work, and if you are adamant in squeezing as much details out of your shot as possible, this is the right lens for the job. 

The rendering of this 30mm F3.5 macro lens is quite similar to the 60mm F2.8 Macro lens. However, being a macro lens, the image look and feel is somewhat flatter than what we can obtain from the other non macro prime lenses, such as 25nn F1.8 or 45mm F1.8. I am referring to the depth and 3-D look of the images, though for macro lens, it is designed to be technically excellent, hence the flatter characteristics which is not necessarily a bad thing. This is also due to the reason that a F3.5, the lens may not be able to create shallow enough depth of field. 
In my insect macro shots, it is difficult to spot any chromatic aberration if any since I was stopping down my images to F8 or narrower. I did bring this 30mm F3.5 macro lens for a quick street shooting session, and shooting wide open at F3.5 generally yields no chromatic aberration, which I believe is in part due to the aggressive in camera JPEG processing to correct any chromatic aberration if any. When it comes to areas with difficult and confusing patterns, the camera fails to correct the purple fringing, as shown in one of the image samples (far below, of a pedestrain bridge). However the presence of the purple fringing was rare, and if there was any observed, it should not be difficult to correct in post-processing. Alternatively, you can stop down to F4.5 or F5.6, and there is no trace of chromatic aberration observed. 
Bokeh quality was very good. The background transition/rolloff was very smooth, and I did not observe any harshness, even shooting at F5.6. The F3.5 on a macro lens is sufficient to create shallow enough depth of field for subject isolation in macro shooting conditions as you get close to the subjects, and the bokeh is actually looking quite similar in quality with any of the current Olympus prime lenses. 
Being a macro lens, there is completely no noticeable corner softness, or barrel distortion, even shooting at wide open F3.5. I did not test the flare resistance, because, you know, how often do you point a macro lens against the sun? 
Besides testing the lens by shooting insect macro with flash, I have also shot a series of insect macro photographs without flash. For the following series of insect macro photographs, I shot only with available light, mostly with Aperture Priority, and varying ISO was used in correspondence to the intensity of the ambient light. I could not use tripod on location (tripods are prohibited in KL Butterfly Park) hence I needed to rely on the in camera 5-Axis Image Stabilization to steady my shots. The many cups of flat whites I have been consuming did not help in this situation at all. No, I am not going to give up on my flat whites. Coffee is something I can never live without. 
OM-D E-M10 Mark II
F5.6, 1/80sec, ISO320, No flash used
This is a good example of wide angle macro. I could not do this with the 60mm macro shot. Suddenly, a butterfly decided to land on my stomach (thankfully I have lost some weight). It was drinking my…… sweat! The 30mm was just wide enough to shoot this, and you can see my feet a the top left of the frame. I was wearing orange sandals. That one butterfly was tagging me along for another 30 minutes! Was my sweat that delicious?

Some depth of field comparisons, and also bokeh quality. 
Top left: F3.5, Top right: F4.5, Botton left: F5.6, Bottom right: F8

F4.5, F6.3, ISO320, No Flash Fired
Same damselflies having sex as the previous one taken with flash, so I decided to shoot one without flash. 

Crop from previous image

F3.5, 1/60sec, ISO200, No Flash Fired

F6.3, 1/80sec, ISO400, No Flash Fired
Crop from previous image

F4.5, 1/100sec, ISO200, No Flash Fired

F6.3, 1/80sec, ISO400, No Flash Fired

OM-D E-M10 Mark II
F5.6, 1/80sec, ISO500 

OM-D E-M10 Mark II
F3.5, 1/250sec, ISO320

The lens is so small and light, that I thought I was shooting with their the 25mm F1,8 or 45mm F1.8 lens! There really is nothing much to write about the lens handling, it felt comfortable in hand, and  am sure it will fit nicely into smaller cameras like Panasonic GM1 or any of the Olympus PEN Lite series (eg, E-PL7, or E-PL8). I chose E-M1 and E-M10 Mark II, because I needed the beefier hand grip for my one hand holding camera/lens and another hand holding flash shooting technique (you can read my extreme magnification insect shooting methodology here), I did not come into any issue throughout my shooting session with the macro lens. 
If there was a surprise that I have found about this lens, is the autofocus performance. 
Olympus claimed that there is a 20-30% improvement in focusing speed in comparison to the 60mm F2.8 Macro lens, which I think is a vague number. I did find the AF to be VERY reliable. 
I rarely use Autofocus in my insect macro shooting shots, usually I would set my magnification to a certain level (say, 1x magnification) and then I see through the viewfinder, moving myself (the camera and lens of course) closer and closer to the subject until I see it being clear on my viewfinder. Then I will rock myself slightly back and forth until the best sharpness is seen and I hit the shutter button immediately. 
I tried the AF on the 30mm F3.5 Macro and I got high success rates! I did miss a few shots, after all even if you have moved about 1mm away from the subject after the focus lock by half-press of the shutter button, you will still get an out of focus shot, it is that crucial. But overall, the AF was more confident, and locks on easier. Shooting experience did improve marginally just because of the much more usable AF capability of the lens. 


Considering the 30mm perspective, which is not far from 25mm that I normally use, I thought why not I bring this 30mm F3.5 lens out to shoot other subjects other than just macro? 30mm is quite a usable, versatile focal length for general shooting situations. I walked around some KL streets and shot anything that caught my attention.

Did I miss the F1.8 wide open aperture on 25mm F1.8 or 45mm F1.8? I sure do, but hey, not everything needs to be shot with shallow depth of field.

F8, 1/50sec, ISO200
Someone in some photography forum commented that I always have thick eyebrows in my eye crops. I never even realized that, then I thought hey maybe I should crop something else without eyebrows. You know, so that people do not get creeped out so much. 
You know, maybe shooting mannequins. And shooting mannequins in indoor shopping malls, with full air-conditioning, I can escape the cruel grilling Malaysian sun. 

Here, my non-eyebrow crop. Synthetic orange hair works too right?

OM-D E-M1 
F3.5, 1/125sec, ISO200
Expressionless face works too. Do you know how much work it is to walk around and ask permission to shoot close up portraits? From now on maybe I will just show expressionless faces. 

F5.6, 1/160sec, ISO200
Ok ok, what was I talking about.  I was just kidding of course. Shooting portraits of strangers is so fun! Especially people along KL streets are usually friendly and cheerful. 
To whoever commented on the eyebrow, do keep those comments coming. Yes I do read and try to follow the discussion about my blog elsewhere, and I sincerely thank all of you who defended me when my integrity and review validity were questioned. You all make my time and effort here worthwhile. 

F3.5, 1/100sec, ISO200
Here comes the…..


F5.6, 1/1000sec, ISO200
There have been many shots with vertical and horizontal lines in them and none of them exhibited any sort of distortion. As expected from macro lens, distortion should be well controlled. 

F3.5, 1/30sec, ISO200
Here is the sample on the pedestrian bridge, shot at wide open F3.5 showing purple fringing in complex patterned area of the photograph. 

Do bear in mind that this is one rare photograph that shows such heavy purple fringing, which was not observed in other shots. This led me to believe that a huge part of the absence of chromatic aberration was due to software in camera correction. 

F4.5, 1/320, ISO1000
I accidentally shot this at ISO1000. Yes I do screw up my shots. This was a sign I need a coffee break soon. Before more screw ups happen. 

F5.6, 1/250sec, ISO200
Autofocus was super fast, like all other M.Zuiko lenses, and for non macro shooting, response was almost instantaneous. 
F3.5, 1/250sec, ISO200
F5.6, 1/60sec, ISO200
For your own pixel-peeping pleasure, as usual I am providing full resolution image samples. 
You may download the full resolution image samples of
Olympus M.Zuiko 30mm F3.5 Macro Lens (click here)
I have enjoyed myself tremendously shooting with the M.Zuiko 30mm F3.5 Macro lens!
What I like about the 30mm F3.5 Macro lens:
1) Excellent sharpness, with very good technical lens flaw control
2) Improved AF performance, especially for close up shooting, increasing macro hit rates and better overall shooting experience
3) Versatile perspective for general shooting purposes, not just macro
4) Small, light and compact form factor
What I dislike:
1) Noticeable traces of chromatic aberration in some shots (complex scenes)
2) Not the best lens for extreme close up insect photography

I think the M.Zuiko 30mm F3.5 Macro lens is a great addition to the Olympus M.Zuiko line up. The lens has high level of sharpness, good contrast, can produce a maximum of 2.5x magnification which is incredible, has improved and reliable Autofocus performance, yet is versatile to be used for general purpose non-macro shooting. The lightweight and compact form factor of the 30mm F3.5 macro lens matches any Micro Four Thirds camera body perfectly, and if you have this lens, it is an easy to bring everywhere lens. The only downside, is the need to go too close to the subject to achieve high magnification, and this is surely not ideal for insect macro if you want to get full 2.5x magnification shots. Olympus 60mm F2.8 Macro is more ideal for that purpose. Nonetheless, the lower price point and the overall more versatile perspective makes this a good choice for those who may treasure the importance of having close up shooting capability over F1.8 shallow depth of field rendering on 45mm F1.8 or 25mm F1.8 prime lenses. More options is always better for us!

F3.5, 1/20sec, ISO200
OM-D E-M10 Mark II
F5.6, 1/60sec, ISO1600

Crop from previous image

F6.3, 1/160sec, ISO400, Bounced Flash used
Curry + Rendang Spaghetti. 

F7.1, 1/160sec, ISO640, Bounced Flash Used
This dessert dish is called, Better Than Sex. I am not kidding.  

OM-D E-M10 Mark II
F7.1, 1/25sec, ISO500

F5.6, 1/25sec, ISO200

Crop from previous image

OM-D E-M10 Mark II
F6.3, 1/100sec, ISO500

F8, 5sec, ISO200

I hope you have found my review and photograph samples of the new Olympus M.Zuiko 30mm F3.5 Macro lens useful! Do not hesitate to ask if there is any question.

Please support my blog by liking m Facebook Page here (click)

New bar alert! Union Drinkery from A&D folks now open on Georgia


Good news: Union Drinkery, from the folks behind A&D in Shaw and Small Fry on Georgia, has opened. A friend stopped by their soft opening yesterday and they’ve also been tweeting about it. The address is 3216 Georgia, next to Small Fry.

They have happy hour from 5-8pm and food from Small Fry until 9, which is pretty tasty stuff — BBQ, scotch eggs, burgers and the like. Check out the menu here.

We heard earlier from the owner that they won’t have a particular theme, just a no frills neighborhood joint like A&D. They’re open until 1 am and there’s also a back patio.

Photos via Bill M.

Fireworks Season — Don’t Move the Camera

Goodbyehorses.us – In my last post, I mentioned that you should avoid moving your tripod and camera while photographing a fireworks display.

Here’s the reason why:  You might want to blend so-so photos to make a more striking image.

I blended together four rather unspectacular photos from a recent fireworks show in Photoshop.

I highlighted each image in Photoshop Bridge.  Clicked on Tools >Photoshop> Load Files Into Photoshop Layers.
Photoshop opened and the images were in a layer stack on the right side.
I highlighted each image, then clicked on Lighten in the blend mode.
Then I clicked on Layer>Flatten and opened the new image with Filter>Camera Raw Filter.
That opened the image in Adobe Camera Raw and I made final adjustment.

The finished image looks a lot more interesting.
More bursts of light in the sky plus more cars in the parking lot.

Each image in the fireworks display might not be a winner.  Combined together, though, you might have some pretty nice shots.

Stay tuned for another post tomorrow.

Do Your Shoot RAW or RAW+JPG?

Goodbyehorses.us – I got this question today:

Question:  Do you shoot in RAW + JPG?  If so, is that all the time or do you change for a particular setting?

My Answer:  Good question.  I shoot in RAW all the time.  There was a time years ago when I shot RAW most of the time and JPG when I only wanted a small photo.  But, I’d forget to change back to RAW and then mess up.

Today storage cards are so cheap.  I shoot everything in RAW.  It’s simple to convert a RAW to a JPG in Photoshop’s Adobe Camera Raw or Lightroom.  It’s easy to resize those JPG files for Facebook or slide shows.  
I recommend that the camera be set for JPGs when someone has limited computer skills.  Some folks don’t want to process their files so JPGs are perfect in that situation.   In that case, the person should shoot the biggest JPG file that their camera can capture.   

RAW files can be processed without losing any data.  Processing can be backed-out, too.  That’s nice when we get new processing tools in Photoshop’s Adobe Camera Raw or Lightroom.  

Blurring the Waves with ND Filter

Goodbyehorses.us – Here’s a question from a photography friend:

Kathy, I’m in Mexico at Isla de las Mujeres. Beautiful water with large boulders with waves hitting them. I’ve tried different settings trying to get the smooth look on the water, good shots but most over exposed. I have a variable neutral density filter on my lens. Any suggestions you can make on settings would help me out tremendously. Thanks!

My answer:

Slow shutter speed is the key to blurring the waves.

The waves might be too strong to completely blur in the bright sun.  You might need to wait until near sunset or sunrise when the light is low.  Even then, you might not be able to completely blur the waves with a 30 second exposure.

A 10-stop ND would give you a longer exposure.  I use the B&W 10-stop ND filter (Neutral Density) with the  LExp app on my phone for timing calculation.  I did a 5-minute exposure with a 10-stop ND at twilight last week in Galveston.  The waves were all smooth.

Fishing pier in Galveston, Texas.
5-minute exposure with a 10-stop ND filter

A Variable ND is not the greatest at 10-stops.  Try it around 5-stops for best results.

No cell phone app?  Count on your fingers.  For example, let’s say the exposure is 1/10 at f/22 during the day.  The light meter is balanced.

  • Put the ND filter on the lens. 
  • Set the camera to Manual.  
  • Set f/stop to 22.  
  • Now count on your fingers 5-stops backward to get the shutter speed.  1/10, 1/5, 1/2.5, 1.5 sec, 3 sec.  
  • Set the shutter speed for 3 seconds.  That’s 3″ on the camera.  
  • Set the camera for timed exposure with a 10 second delay or 2 second delay, 
  • Cover the viewfinder with your thumb to block stray light.  
  • Click.   
Should work like a charm.  
Atlantic Ocean with a 10-stop ND filter

Atlantic Ocean (same location as above) at f/22 and 30 seconds.
Iceland with a 10-stop ND filter.  

Same scene as above at f/22 and 30 second exposure.
The waves are so strong that they don’t blur a lot even at 30 seconds.

Fireworks Season — Cropping Plus Content Aware


 Photoshop CC 2015.5 gives us an amazing new tool under crop.  Normally we think of using the crop tool to reduce an image or take away something we don’t want in an image.

Yet, in the new CC 2015.5 crop we can ADD a bit to an image.  This is useful if we cut something off or something spills out of the frame.

Notice in the photo on the left that the burst of light exceeded the size of the frame.

In the photo on the right, you’ll see that the top of burst has been captured — or recreated.

I did that with Content Aware in the crop tool in  Photoshop CC 2015.5.

Here’s how it works:

  • Open the image in Photoshop CC 2015.5
  • Click on the crop tool 
  • Click on the tiny box next to the words Content Aware in the ribbon above the photo. (I’ve circled it below)
  • The pull the crop box up about 1/4 inch.
  • Press return and Photoshop works magic and the small area above the photo is filled in.  
  • Do that again with another 1/4 inch and a bit more area is created. 
  • Flatten the layers when finished.
  • Click Filter>Camera Raw Filter or open into Lightroom for minor tweaking to the cloned area.

Pretty amazing tool, Adobe.  Thanks!  We needed that!

Two Different Sharpening Methods


Two different ways to sharpen an image.  Both do the same thing in a slightly different way.
How to sharpen with High Pass Filter:

Open the photo in Photoshop. 

Control (or Command) J to create a duplicate layer. (Or however you create a duplicate layer.)
On the new layer…Filter > Other > High Pass. Use around 8 or so. Experiment. Click Okay.
Change the blend mode of the layer to Overlay and turn the opacity down to around 20% or whatever looks good.
Add a mask and mask out the areas where sharpening is not needed. (Paint with black on the mask.)

Sharpening in Adobe Camera Raw or in Lightroom under Sharpen:

Open the photo in Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) or Lightroom’s Develop module.

Go to Sharpen.

Press the Option (or Alt) key on your keyboard and hold it down.

Press and hold the Masking key under Sharpening.  The photo will go white.

Still holding the Option key and the Masking key down, slide the Masking key to the right.  Areas of the photo will change to black.  These are the areas that won’t be sharpened.  Usually the background turns black first.  The white areas will be sharpened.

Continue to move the Masking slider to the right until areas you want to sharpen are white and areas you don’t want to sharpen are black.  (Confused?  Don’t sharpen the wrinkles on a lady’s face. The eye lashes and hair should be sharp, though.  In the image of the fox, the background is not sharpened but the area around the eyes is sharpened.)

Let go of the Option key and the Masking key.

Move the Sharpen slider.  I usually move the slider about 40.

NOTE:  Be sure to run noise reduction on the photo before sharpening in both methods.  You don’t want to sharpen unnecessary noise in a photo.

SECOND NOTE:  Check the sharpening by enlarging the image to 100%.  Over-sharpening is really noticeable when you print an image.  Over-sharpening shows up as a tiny white line around sharpened areas.

Focus Stacking on a Bird


Nature photography means that we photograph birds and creatures where we find them in the wild.  Sometimes things work and sometimes they don’t.  That’s why we shoot a lot of images, stay with the subject as long as we can, and put all our skills into the photo.  Then we also have the ability to incorporate tools in Photoshop or Lightroom.

This photo of a smooth-billed ani is an “almost.”  The feathers on the back are soft but the face is in focus. 
Same bird with the feathers on the back in sharp focus.  The face is out-of-focus.
All is not lost.  The bird didn’t move between the two exposures so I can create a layer blend.  
  • Open both images in a layer in Photoshop. 
  • Highlight both images.
  • Press Edit>Align.
  • Press Edit>Blend.
  • Flatten the layer.
Notice that the face is now in focus as are the feathers on the back. 
Here’s the full image.
Smooth-billed ani in Pantanal, Brazil

Photography Classes in Houston

Goodbyehorses.usRegistration is open for my fall 2016 photography classes in Houston and The Woodlands.

Click here to register

Classes are:

  • Processing with Photoshop and Lightroom — Sept 20th in The Woodlands
  • Basic Photography —  Sept 24th in The Woodlands
  • Introduction to Photoshop and Lightroom — Sept 28th in Houston
  • Macro Photography: Hands On — Oct 5th in Houston
  • Basic Photography — Nov 5th in The Woodlands
  • Flash Basics — Nov 17th in The Woodlands
  • Night Photography: Holiday Lights — Dec 1st The Woodlands
  • Basic Photography — Dec 3rd in Houston 
  • Night Photography: Downtown — Dec 12th in Houston
Pass the word to your photography friends.  Join me!

Web Address For Leisure Learning

Goodbyehorses.us – I’ve been teaching photography classes for 20 years through Leisure Learning in Houston.  Today I found this note on the Leisure Learning website:

The website www.leisurelearinghouston.com is NOT a Leisure Learning Unlimited website and should be treated as such. They do not offer any of our classes and are not associated with Leisure Learning Unlimited. The three valid Leisure Learning Unlimited websites are: www.LeisureLearningUnlimited.com, www.LeisureLearningClasses.com, www.lluhouston.com.

Note that the valid websites for Leisure Learning are:

Appears the people running the website in red are posing as Leisure Learning.  They even offer photography classes with titles similar to the titles I use.  Don’t be confused.  

Register through my website if you’d like to avoid confusion.

Photography Classes with Kathy Adams Clark